Thursday, June 21, 2012
Tuesday, March 20, 2012
Thursday, January 12, 2012
Big Money Rally
And so it begins.
On a rainy, cold January day, I set off to earn a primo t-shirt for participating in the Big Money Rally.
Of course, it wasn't raining when I left the house. Nature revolted as I reached the point of no return, nearing my first bonus location. By the time I had found a parking spot that would show the building with its zip code visible, as well as the bike and the required placard, rain was pouring.
Since I started out without rain gear on, I figured I might as well stay wet. I quickly set up the shot and posted it to the internet with the wrong site location. I was in Dundee, MI on Monroe Street. Monroe is another Michigan town, due East about 20 miles. So, naturally I labeled the bonus picture Monroe instead of Dundee. No matter, I punched the next address into the GPS and headed for the Post Office in Tecumseh.
By now, the rain was coming down in sheets and I was starting to re-think my choice of wearing an open face helmet. There is a sweet spot on the Goldwing that allows rain to fly above your face at speeds greater than 80 mph. At speeds of about 35 or less the rain hits your face but just gets you wet. On the way to Tecumseh, traffic required a speed between 60 and 70, which is similar to having someone constantly shooting you in the face with a low powered BB machine pistol.
At any rate, I arrived at the Tecumseh Post Office more or less intact. I composed a beautiful shot of the building. Then I sent the wrong picture in to the Rally web site. The one I meant to send is this:
When I got home I realized my error and re-submitted the correct picture. I checked the web-site later, and found the BMR scoring administrators had given me credit for the two locations in spite of the liberties I had taken with place names.
I chalk it up to the sympathy vote. They must have taken pity of the soggy guy from Michigan trolling around in a rainstorm in the middle of January trying to score a complimentary t-shirt.
If anyone is actually reading this, take a look at the BMR site. It threatens to be a fun couple of months for anyone who owns a bike and hasn't got enough sense to come in out of the rain.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Sunday, June 19, 2011
Monday, December 20, 2010
Monday, October 25, 2010
GL1800 Starter - When good starters go bad
The Goldwing motorcycle is a wonderful feat of engineering. It is a leading edge machine, and reliable to a fault. That is what makes a mechanical problem so irksome. The machine rarely breaks. The usual routine involves adding gas and occasionally changing the oil. The first valve clearance check isn't even needed until 32,000 miles. And then adjustments are seldom needed.
When the key is turned and touching the starter button results in silence, there is a moment of disbelief. Then follows the checklist. Kill switch set, lights and other electrics work. What could it be? The ignition key assembly must be ok or the lights wouldn't come on. There is a click noise coming from the area behind the battery but no starter engagement.
Lately, I've begun to rely on the internet to solve problems whether it be a toilet tank that won't shut off or a medical condition. The usual routine is to examine a number of potential diagnoses and their respective solutions, pick one and exhaust time, energy and money finding out it has nothing to do with the issue. There's a greater than 50% chance things will actually get worse using this process, but it is irresistible.
My search for the starter solution began with checking my favorite Goldwing site; gl1800riders.com. Advice was abundant when I described my problem. It was almost universally agreed upon that the problem was a bad relay which was simple to fix.
Armed with new confidence I looked up the procedure for accessing the relay. It turns out the manual wants you to remove the left saddlebag, which requires removing the rear fender and entire lower portion of the trunk.
Of course, after taking apart about one third of the bodywork and replacing the relay, I fond that when I tried the starter the same click followed by silence remained. On the upside, I discovered none of the bodywork really had to be removed to access the relay. All one has to do is remove the battery and battery box and the relay practically jumps out of its moorings. (This knowledge would be handy later).
Having exhausted the collective knowledge of all the internet experts, I went back to my roots and decided to test the starter itself. Although this endeavor eventually proved to be semi-successful, it is not a project to be undertaken by the faint of heart. Honda engineers have packed a lot of technology into a small package. Consequently, any time you want to tinker with something it requires removal or adjustment of several other systems. In the case of the starter motor, you have to remove the side panels, the dashboard, the top shelter (faux gas tank), the real gas tank, the rear hydraulic brake system, the reverse linkage, and numerous fasteners, clips, wire connectors, etc.
The starter is held to the engine case by three bolts, one of which requires the use of all the swear words ever invented to remove.
Besides the rear brake linkage, and hydraulics, the worst part of the job is getting the gas tank out of a space that is smaller than the tank itself. Once again, removal involves a liberal application of magic incantations. (Important tip: siphon out the gas before attempting to lift out he tank). Even after all the gas has been removed, about a gallon will spill all over the bike and work area even if it is kept perfectly right side up at all times.
Bottom line. The starter turned out to be the culprit. Since no one in the greater Detroit area would rebuild it. I cleaned it up the best I could and replaced it. It worked for about a year before giving up again. This time I troubleshot the job by putting the bike in gear and rocking it, then trying the starter. A few rocks and it would start. Has to be the starter. According to the internet a replacement starter for a 2002 Goldwing is worth about $500 to $700.00. A 2006 starter is $112.00 including shipping. According to the experts online it should fit. Hahahaha. Anyway, I have started stripping down the bike and waiting for the part to arrive. The saga continues.
Fast forward a week. The 2006 starter arrived via FedEx. At first glance it looked close. Upon comparing it side by side with the original, the new one is about 3/8" shorter overall. This may be a good thing since it the old one takes up all the available space to manipulate. The catch is the electrical connection stud. On the new one, the stud sticks right out of the top. About 2 inches beyond the maximum reach of the cable.
The solution is to remove the mounting collar using the three long screws. Rotate the housing 120 degrees and reinstall. Of course there is an alignment pin to deal with and the two planetary gears to trick back into the right position. The alignment pin came out fairly easily using a pair of needle nose pliers. Putting the whole thing back together was uneventful. Now-on to the install in the bike and reassembly of all the pieces.
I just noticed I never finished this saga. It ends well. After putting everything back together (including using the parts left over after the first strip down) the mighty gold wing started like it was brand new.
The moral to the story, if there is one, is to trust your own experience and knowledge (if you have any) over all the armchair experts. And secondly, no matter how devious motorcycle engineers have become, we can still fix our own broken machines like we did in the old days. It just takes more magic words.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Monday, August 03, 2009
Fork Seal Change on a Gold Wing
While repairing an uncooperative starter, I noticed fork oil running down the right side of the front suspension. Closer inspection revealed soaked brake pads and coated wheel and undercarriage on the right side.
I decided to get an estimate at the local Honda shop. Four hundred plus parts. Naturally I opted for the most difficult choice and bought the new seals and dust covers, optimistically assuming nothing else would need repair once I opened up the job.
The first step I recommend is to find a truck stop or industrial waste site and collect about 5 gallons of used petroleum products and if possible add to this a few pounds or pureed rotten moose guts. Spread this mixture liberally over the garage floor, walls, and any tools and benches you plan to use to mask the smell and roughly match the volume of the goo you will "drain" from the forks.
Next spend a few hours reading on the internet how easy it is to swap out a set of seals in 30 minutes to two hours tops. Don't forget to study the "shop manual" for useless information that has nothing to do with the actual work you are about to tackle. After wasting half a day looking for time saving shortcuts, give up and actually start taking the bike apart.
It turns out the geniuses at Honda use two bolts on the left brake caliper and two on the right to hold said devices to the forks. When you try to remove them you find two bolts take a 13 mm socket, one a hex wrench, and one a #40 Torx socket. Yes, three different fasteners to hold what amounts to the same component to the same structure, just on the opposite side.
Removing the front half of the fender and the front wheel is pretty straighforward. Unless you count the 30 or so fasteners you have to take off to get the brakes out of the way. It's also important to consult a higher power before trying to fish the back part of the fender out of the tangle of brake lines and sytem of tabs and slots designed to test the patience of Job.
Once all the various contraptions that are stuck to the fork legs are removed the job gets a little simpler. There are still a couple of tricks up Honda's sleeve however. The dash has to be removed to access the top caps. This of course means dealing with the wire connector which cannot be pulled apart no matter how many times you have done it before. (Every time I take it apart I swear I will file off the little catch that causes the problem).
Another procedure calls for loosening the hex bolt in the bottom of each leg. Many people suggest using an air impact wrench for this. I opted for the low tech method. Using a standard hex wrench, I found a giant Crescent wrench and fitted the "L" part into the jaws and broke loose the stubborn bolt. This is also the time when random spurts of stinky black oil will begin to fly out out in all directions without warning or deference to physics.
Speaking of oversize tools, the top caps can not be loosened without resorting to extra leverage. After straining with a ratchet wrench and inventing a few new words, I decided to gain an advantage by using my torque wrench with the long handle. As I was holding the right handlebar with my belly and pulling the wrench for all I was worth it occurred to me it might be interesting to see how much torque it took to break this particular bolt loose. Just as my eyes started to focus on the tiny numbers the bolt gave way. I didn't get the reading but I did put the torque wrench on the floor where I could trip over it a few minutes later.
One more obstacle remained before I could actually remove the right fork and spill more oil on the floor. The upper pinch bolt came loose pretty easily. The lower one is semi-hidden up under the front body work and of course coated with a thick mixture of oil and dirt. After loosening the lower pinch bolt I soon found the fork tube was still stuck fast and no amount of cursing would cause it to budge. I re-loosened the upper pinch bolt and began hammering on the top of the fork cap with a big hammer and a half inch socket extension. For some reason I came to my senses temporarily and re-examined the lower pinch bolt. This time I noticed the second bolt immediately above the lower one I had already loosened. A couple of turns and the leg came sliding out, dripping filthy smelly oil all the way to the work bench where it puked another puddle of grayish ooze before I had time to react.
Now I have mentioned several times the odor associated with the used fork oil. It is severe. Think of what it might be like to sniff a vagrant's sweat sock which has been soaked in kimchi, and buried under a damp chicken coop for about three years. Then double the effect.
Once the dismantling is complete, the rest of the job is anticlimactic. At least I hope so. I haven't started putting it together yet. And I still have the left side to do.
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Father's Day in Afghanistan
"We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm."
-Winston Churchill
Monday, March 10, 2008
Sunday, August 19, 2007
Interesting Sights Along the Freeway.
Coming back to Michigan from the mountains on Colorado, one is prepared for the relative monotony of miles of freeway riding. The alternative is a multi-day ride on secondary roads with the chance to enjoy a little more local color. Luckily, even the freeway offers the occasional respite from the sameness of the desert or flat farmland.
Coming down old route 666 after visiting Four Corners, the town of Ship Rock offers a view of its namesake off to the west.The area sports a number of lesser volcanic remains, all impressive, none as imposing and elegant in its command of the surroundings.
Continuing south, isolated thunder storms filled nearby arroyos with fast moving muddy water which at one point crashed against the roadway before turning 90 degrees to seek a culvert. The road had just enough turns that we were able to avoid getting rained on. Sneaking between the huge blue-gray clouds became a gamble with cooler air as the prize.
At Gallup we turned left on I-40 and headed straight for another huge storm cloud. This one didn't get out of our way and as we rode into the leading edge, an overpass beckoned. Apparently we weren't the only ones looking for cover. Several vehicles were already using all the level ground so we pressed on into the dark pouring rain. Traffic was heavy with most vehicles opting for the truck lane. This left the inside lane available for passing. The roadway had water standing in many places and the spray from the semis was blinding. At one point a Ford Explorer appeared in the median with a panicked driver at the wheel. Hydroplaning was obviously a concern for some but didn't seem to be an issue for the motorcycle. Ten miles of rain and suddenly dry road. The wet apparel felt good in the 95 degree heat. I was glad we opted to ignore the rain gear.
The fourth tank of gas for the day brought us to Santa Rosa, about halfway between Albequerque and Amarillo. We had been passing remnants of the famous Route 66 all day. Billboards hawking restaurants boasted of authentic ties to the fabled road. Naturally, one such cafe was across the street from the hotel we chose for the night. The food was good, the memorabilia was predictably tacky. An early 60s T-Bird was parked outside with a fading coat of yellow paint over everything except the windows. Obviously, not intended for close inspection. We had made fewer miles than we had intended due to numerous stops for photos, but all in all it was a good run from Montrose, Colorado.
Sunday, August 05, 2007
Rockies Gold 2007 - Day 5
Saturday, August 04, 2007
Rockies Gold 2007 - Day 4
Friday there was an open invitation to any of two hundred or so riders who showed up in Montrose to assemble at Dallas Divide for a group photo.
The previous evening we got together in two shifts to swap lies and eat Mexican cuisine at the Fiesta Guadalajara. Somehow the staff got everyone waited on efficiently. They must practice on tour bus loads of visitors. Speaking of staff, they were all friendly and accomodating. We pretended to understand their Spanglish and they pretended not to understand us.
Riders headed south in twos and threes, sometimes more. Along the way our little band encountered a landing hot air balloon.
The group dissassembled as quickly as it formed with people anxious to explore the mountains. I fell in with Frank, Don (Betthe) an Mikee. We planned to head to Utah and have alook at Arches National Park. We were joined along the way by Wayne and Kendra from Florida.
Friday, August 03, 2007
Rockies Gold 2007 - Day 3
Thursday, August 02, 2007
Rockies Gold 2007 - Day 2
Wednesday, August 01, 2007
Rockies Gold 2007 - Day 1
So Tuesday has finally arrived. It's off to I-94 and Zeeb Road near Ann Arbor to meet Frank Carpenter for a day's ride to Sterling, Colorado.
I arrived at location about 10 minutes early and saw Frank in the McDonald's parking lot. The gas station next door, where we were to officially start our "Ironbutt" ride was closed. After due consideration and an Egg McMuffin, the lights came on at the gas station and we got the necessary time-stamped receipts. Shortly after 6:00 a.m. we were on our way west.
There is not a lot I can say about our first day. I have come to the conclusion there is little chance of the Unites States running out of corn or dead skunks in the near future. The Midwest is the price a traveler pays to see the rest of the country.
The first highlight of the trip was lunch and gas at the Iowa 80 Truckstop in Walcott, Iowa. Billed as the world's largest truck stop, a must see for shut-ins and people who want to add to their collection of truck themed Zippos.
Since we were on a mission, we hurried through the lunch line at Wendy's and then started to , gas up. Within moments, Frank broke his glasses. After a brief, unproductive search around the gas pump for a missing screw about the size of an atom, we opted for plan B. I found a small piece of tiny wire that fit through the screw holes in the glasses frame. We fitted the lens back in place and twisted the wire until the hinge barely moved, clipped off the excess with a leatherman and back on the road.
We were getting about 200 miles per tank and this was our 3rd fill up, a little after 11:00 CST.
Continuing accross the vast source of all Corn Flakes, we finally got into Omaha, Nebraska. As we threaded the maze of off ramps, road construction, farm trucks, tourists, and shredded truck tires, I kept an eye out for the famous Omaha Steak. Never saw one. Once past the hectic city, I glanced down at my newly installed GPS and one of the saddest things in recent memory. The little gizmo read: Turn left in 308 miles.
The rest of the day was as uneventful as the morning. We ground steadily westward and finally turned left on US-76 toward Sterling, Colorado. We found Officer Rusch at the Sterling Police Department who was willing to witness our arrival at 9:37 Mountain time (11:47 Eastern) thus officially qualifying for an Ironbutt (1000 miles in 24 hours) ride.
Prior to tracking down a witness, we had started the search for a hotel. Apparently Sterling is a destination for travelers as the only place we could find was a smoking room at the Super 8. The clerk had a voice like Sonny Barger and an indifferent attitude. The room smelled like a pair of old Army socks which had been marinaded in road kill. We kept the lights off and crept into our beds. The next day beckoned. We were loooking forward to some 3D terrain. To be continued...
Thursday, July 05, 2007
New Shoes
With a little over 40,000 miles on the clock it seemed like a good time to inspect the brake pads. The timing was good because one of the four fronts was down past the wear lines. The rest still had the line but the depth was just enough to catch with a fingernail.
Rockies Gold is coming up which means about 1300 miles each way plus four days of riding the mountain roads aroud Montrose, Colorado.
No use trying to squeeze any more miles out these pads.
To get the ball rolling, I consulted the trusty Clymer manual to see if there was any tips that would make life easier. There wasn't. One suggestion was to push the caliper housing inwards to shove the pucks back out of the way before removing the old pads. I tried this. It would have been easier to push a '57 Buick up Lombard Street.
I opted for plan B. Put away the manual and pull out the pin holding the pads in place. The pads dropped out without assistance as soon as the pin cleared. The micrometer showed only .05" at the thinnest part of the pad and .1" at the thickest remaining part. According to the book, minimum service thickness is .14".
The next challenge was to push in the brake pistons or pucks to make room for the new pads. Three pucks/pistons on each side. On the left side I was able to get the middle one to move with finger pressure. The upper and lower had to be convinced with a flat bladed screwdriver. All three on the right side had to be pushed in with a tool.
By the way, if you plan to do this job here are some of my tips:
- Take off the front brake reservoir cover
- Wrap the right handlebar area in plastic to catch any overflow
- Check the fluid level in the reservoir after pushing in each puck
- Only do one side at a time to avoid pushing too much fluid back into the reservoir
- When pushing in the pucks, do not pry against the disc
Anyway, the only hard part of the job was pushing in the pistons. Once they are out of the way, put the inboard pad in place, then the outboard pad, grease up the retaining pin and put it back together.
I did the left side first and before tackling the other side I squeezed the front brake to reseat the pistons against the new pads. This allows the brake fuid in the reservoir to go back down so you have room to do the right side. It is even more important to keep an eye on the reservoir level as you do the second side. You have raised the pre-existing level by putting in thicker pads on the first side.
The rear brake pads are still pretty thick so I'll probably wait to change them at 80,000 miles.
The only thing left to do was a test ride. I squeezed the front brake until it was hard and hit the street. Everything was great until I decided to stop fast and used both brakes. I forgot all about the linked brake stuff and of course the rear pedal went to the bottom. A couple of quick pumps and it is back. I am pretty light on the rear brake unless I really need it and from the looks of the pads, that is what is expected by the engineers. The left side was only slightly more worn than the right.
If you have a goldwing and have 40K on it, I'd suggest taking a look at those pads. And the link I included is the cheapest OEM set I could find. Good luck.


